SIG’s LT-40 ARF

SIG’s

Kadet LT-40 ARF

Basic ARF Trainer

By Dick Pettit

 

A long time ago, in a land far, far away (Ed. better known as Massapequa, NY), I knew the cousin of a schoolmate who lived right down the block. At that time I had absolutely no interest in model airplanes, and I don’t think my friend’s cousin did either. (Ed. Note: Actually Dick, I had already designed my first twin jet fighter for CL and had flown a foam P-51 CL airplane. My cousin, Ed Granelli, was into RC then and I am now finishing an airplane he started over 50 years ago.)

We were all in high school, and cars, girls and more cars were tops on our list of things to be interested in. Anyway, a few years ago I read that my friend’s cousin was writing for Model Aviation Magazine, the publication of AMA, and since I had been involved in R/C modeling for a while by that time, I got back in contact with my friend’s cousin.

By the way, my friend’s cousin just happened to be Sport Aviator’s Editor, Frank Granelli.

We met again at the Toledo Expo and made plans to work on several projects together, the first of which is this Product Review of a very popular trainer aircraft, the SIG Kadet LT-40. This airplane has been available for a number of years, but has proven itself to be a capable basic glow engine-powered trainer that can be assembled by a beginner, maybe with a little help from a more experienced modeler, and can be used to introduce that builder into stable, controlled flight of a radio controlled model airplane.

The original LT-40 has been a famous basic trainer from the mid-1960’s when it was known as the SIG Kadet. The wood-kit Kadet was modified in the 1980’s to become the Kadet II. Finally, the ARF version was introduced and became the Kadet LT-40. This airframe has given wings to literally tens of thousands of RC pilots during the last 40 years or more.

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Arrangements were made to test a brand new Kadet LT-40 and an appropriate .40 size engine. I could use some servos and radio equipment I had in the workshop gathering dust to complete the airplane. But that’s not the way I wanted to do it. It stands to reason that a modeler with more than 25 years of building and flying experience could probably put an airplane of this type together in a few hours, probably without the help of the instruction manual.

My plan was to enlist the help of a true beginner in our hobby, working closely with him to explain what all the various terms and words meant, and to make sure the airplane was assembled correctly and safely. The beginner would then enlist the help of a trained flight instructor to allow the airplane to be flown safely and to provide flight instruction to the beginner.

So whom do I pick? All of my flying buddies already know how to build and fly a trainer, or at least I hope they do. I have a few neighbors that may want to learn to fly, but I don’t think thy have the time. One or two co-workers have expressed an interest in my hobby, but since RC airplanes do not use a video monitor or a joystick, I’ll have to rule them out as well.

But there is one person that is available all summer, he’s the right age and he always enjoys watching me work on my airplanes in the workshop. That’s my 9 year old grandson Cole Setliff, who lives in Reidsville. NC. I’ll check it out with my daughter and her husband, and I’ll have Grandma pick him up and bring him to the house for a few days of airplane education.

Why did we pick the SIG Kadet LT-40 ARF? Here’s what SIG says:

“America’s best R/C trainer aircraft is now available in an Almost Ready to Fly version. This is no unproven, overweight, hard-to-fly airplane. The Kadet LT-40 is used by flying instructors because it is known as “the easiest to fly” trainer throughout the world.”

“The Kadet LT-40 is easy to assemble in only a few hours work. Flying it is a breeze. Its large size makes it easy to see and docile in flight. It behaves perfectly in flight with “Hands Off” stability, unmatched by others. Slow flight tendencies are sure and steady, making those all-important takeoffs and landings nothing to fear.”

“Start off right. Start off with a Kadet.”

In my experience, the SIG Kadet LT-40 ARF is one of the best trainer airplanes for any newcomer to the hobby. It has a large, easy to see wing and fuselage, it has tricycle landing gear, it has ailerons, it can be powered by a moderately priced 2-cycle glow engine and it is easily assembled by a beginner with just a little help from a more experienced modeler. Once it has been flown and trimmed by a more experienced pilot, it is stable, gentle and easy to see in the air. All these attributes make the LT-40 a very good basic trainer airplane.

(Ed Note: I have to agree here. The Kadet, in all its many forms and variations, has proven time after time to be one of the easiest to fly basic trainers ever designed. I have probably flown a dozen versions of OPA (Other People’s Airplanes) Kadets and loved them all.)

I guess that about says it all, so let’s get started assembling the SIG Kadet LT-40 ARF.

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The Kadet LT-40 and the AviaStar® engine arrived here at the shop a few days ago and I opened the box to make sure everything arrived OK. You can also that I’m holding an engine box in my hand that contains an Aviastar .46 glow engine. SIG offers this engine as part of a combination package with the Kadet LT-40 ARF for about $180.00, a very decent price for a trainer and engine. I’ll be running the engine on my test stand before mounting it on the Kadet.

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I had performed a few assembly steps before my grandson showed up at the house, but here’s my reason. It takes almost an hour to cut out the self stick vinyl stickers and they are applied using a liquid soap such as window cleaner or airplane cleaner to “float” the stickers onto the airplane surfaces (Ed. Note: See Sport Aviator’s Liberty review article for complete details on this decal application method.). The excess liquid is then removed using a squeegee or a piece of thin balsa wood and it is allowed to dry overnight. Since my grandson would only be there for the weekend, I wanted to get any assembly step completed that took more than an hour or so. You can also see that every major component is inside a plastic bag for protection from the elements.

There was a rather ominous hole in the bottom of the kit box that went through to the inside. I opened the box and removed all the parts, finding only a small dent in the underside of one wing panel. I took the time to get out my heat gun and covering iron to shrink the few wrinkles from the AeroKote™ covering including the little dent. This process took a little more than an hour.

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I also wanted to make sure that everything that was needed to assemble the LT-40 was inside the box. The assembly manual, with plenty of photos and drawings, was supplemented by the SIG book entitled “The Basics of Radio Control”; a nice addition for the beginning R/C modeler.

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The kit box also contained all the hardware and accessory parts needed to complete the assembly process. There are formed metal landing gear legs with a spring type steerable nose wheel, a set of very lightweight foam wheels, a fuel tank with fuel tubing and other plumbing, several wood parts including a heavy dihedral brace, a suitable plastic spinner and all the needed nuts, bolts and screws to put things together as well as an adjustable composite engine mount that I had mounted to my engine test stand and is not seen in this photo.

All the parts on the inventory sheet were in the kit box and I put everything back in their plastic bags, waiting for the weekend when my grandson would show up at the house. He still does not know that he is going to build an R/C airplane with his grandfather’s help.

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He arrived at the house Friday afternoon and I told him what we were going to do that weekend. Inside the workshop, I showed him the kit box and he began to perk up a little, after looking a little puzzled when I told him that we were going to build an airplane and fly it all in the same weekend. He opened the box and began looking at what was inside.

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I asked him what would be the first thing that we should do when we opened the box and he answered exactly what I had expected. He said “take everything out”, but I added a little to that by mentioning that we should read the instructions first. So, with instructions in hand, we began to inventory all the parts in the SIG LT-40 ARF box.

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My 5 year old granddaughter Paige came into the shop at that point and she started helping Cole with the inventory process, despite the fact she had absolutely no idea what she was actually doing. She would pick up a part and ask Cole what it was, and he would tell her as he checked it off the list of parts in the manual.

We checked everything off the list except for 2 parts, the wing bolt plates and the aileron connectors. We looked around and found them already installed on the wing panels. It was time to get down to the assembly process.

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We started with hinging the fin to the rudder using the Mylar® hinges provided and thin CAA. The hinge slots are deep enough to allow the hinges to push all the way into the slot so I used a handy modeler’s hint by using straight pins through each hinge at the exact center to keep them from going in too far (Photo 12). Once all the hinges are installed, the other part is lined up with the hinges and pushed all the way onto the hinges. (Photo 13) The pins are then removed and 3 or 4 drops of thin ZAP is applied to each hinge, top and bottom. This process was repeated for the stab and elevator hinges and the wing and aileron hinges.

For complete details about installing these hinges, read the Sport Aviator article “Installing Mylar Hinges” in the Flight Tech Section.

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Joining the wing is a process that needs to be completed quickly due to the possible early curing of the epoxy used to keep the wing panels together. Here’s the process as shown in the manual and we followed it to the letter (Photo 14)

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Once all the epoxy was applied, both inside the spar slots and on one center rib, and the spar inserted into the slots, I used rubber bands on the aileron control arms (Photo 15) and a small clamp on the front wing mount stubs (Photo 16) to keep things in place while the epoxy cured.

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Here are the wing bolt plates that were factory installed. (Photo 17) The instructions for this are shown in the manual (Photo 18)

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The aileron servo mounting plate is now epoxied to the cutout in the bottom of the wing center section (Photo 19) after cutting away the AeroKote™ covering that would be under the plate. The servo and linkages will be installed later.

The next steps in the manual, the application of the graphics,  were taken care of earlier to save some time prior to my grandson’s arrival. Those of you following along in your manual will see the complete and easy to follow instructions set forth on the next pages.

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The stabilizer is now aligned and epoxied to the fuselage. (Photo 20) Be sure to line it up either with a straight line drawn on the fuselage or with a ruler measured to a common point on the front of the fuselage (Photo 21). Make sure the stabilizer is in the plane as the wing.

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The fin is now epoxied to the top of the stabilizer after removing the covering where the fin will be placed, but you can see that the only contact surface area is the small part of the fin that touches the stab (Photo 22). The fin covering is cut away as much as possible (Photo 23). Remove the fuselage covering material under the vertical fin as well.

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However, being the careful builder I am, I also added triangular balsa supports that were covered with some scrap covering to add more support to the fin (Photo 24). While not exactly mandatory, adding this balsa fillet does strengthen the fin/fuselage joint.

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The landing gear is now installed, after mounting the wheels to the wire gear legs, using wheel collars and nylon spacers (Photo 25). The spacers keep the wheels from rubbing on the bent part of the legs.

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Photo 28

You can see that the axial is quite a bit longer than necessary (photo 26) so I cut them off with a cutting disk in my high speed rotary tool (Photo 27) and then ground a flat spot at the place where the collar screws are located (Photo 28). This will keep the collars in place in case the screws become a bit loose. A drop of thread locker on these screws doesn’t hurt either.

Photo 29

The fuel tank hatch is now installed using a single screw, but the front sides are significantly wider than the front of the fuselage (Photo 29). Rather than take the covering off and sand it to the correct size, I left it as it was and nobody noticed.

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The main gear legs are attached to the fuselage using nylon straps and small sheet metal screws (Photo 30). The nose wheel is attached to the spring nose wheel wire in the same manner as the main wheels (Photo 31) and I also ground a flap spot to keep the collar in place.

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The nose wheel steering bracket is mounted to the firewall with bolts and the pre-mounted blind nuts (Photo 32). There are also blind nuts for the engine mount bolts which will be added later. The bracket, steering arm and nose wheel leg are assembled together and bolted in place. You can see the washers I added to keep the bolts from digging into the nylon bracket (Photo 33).Apply thread locking compound to all these bolts before final installation.

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The engine is now mounted to the composite mounts by drilling holes in the mounts at the correct location. (Photo 34) I used 4-40 bolts and nuts to keep the engine on the mounts and the supplied metric M3 bolts and washers to mount the assembly to the firewall (Photo 35). Use thread locker only on the bolts holding the mount in place. Do not use thread locker on the engine bolts as it may damage the threads in the composite mount.

Photo 36

I was planning to mount the muffler to the engine and add the carburetor but found that they both hit the fuselage sides (Photo 36).

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Using a small saw, I cut reliefs in both sides (Photo 37, Photo 38) and then sanded them smooth.

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I then painted them with several coats of fuelproof white paint (Photo 39).

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The radio equipment is now installed, starting with the battery switch (Photo 40). I used a Heavy Duty Charge Switch assembly from Radical R/C. It was easily mounted on the fuselage side after cutting the proper size hole.

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Photo 42

 

The three servos that will be installed in the fuselage were centered using my VEXA Servo-X-Citer (Photo 41) (http://www.vexacontrol.com/) while the rubber mounts and metal grommets were installed following the instructions that come in the radio package. (Ed. Note: Lacking Dick’s servo driver, you can use the transmitter to center the servos. Make sure the trim tabs are also centered.) A long, 6” drill bit makes the job of drilling holes for the servo screws a lot easier (Photo 42)

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The engine end of the throttle pushrod needs a Z bend to attach to the throttle arm (Photo 43) and an easy 5 step process is shown in the manual. I would have preferred to use an EZ connector in case the engine needs to be removed which would involve removing the carburetor first. The throttle control rod uses such an EX connector at the servo arm (Photo 44) to make throttle adjustment easier.

Photo 45

The front of the throttle rod has to be bent to line up with the pre-installed plastic tube in the fuselage (Photo 45) The radio system is temporarily hooked up to adjust the throttle linkage for the correct movement and direction.

Another Z bend is used at the servo end of the steering rod with an EZ connector at the steering arm, making adjustment easy if necessary.

Photo 46

Photo 47

Nylon control horns are used on the rudder (Photo 46) and elevator (Photo 47) and are fastened in place with small bolts and nylon backing plates.

Photo 48

The pushrods are flexible tubes that fit inside larger plastic tubes already in the fuselage. I was a little concerned about the unsupported length of these pushrods until I read that the inner tubes are supported with sections of 2-56 metal rods that are placed in the tubes “backwards: (Photo 48). You can see the threaded end is at the end of the tube and the unthreaded end is pushed inside the tube to add significant rigidity. The instructions say to use a small amount of epoxy on the rods before inserting them into the tubes, but that is a messy process and adds no significant strength to the rods since the threads keep them in place.

(Ed. Note: I suggest following the directions on this one. Use either 5 minute epoxy or thin CAA. I have had some rods held in place with just the metal threads loosen over time.)

Photo 49

Photo 50

The elevator end of the pushrod gets a nylon clevis to which I added a “keeper” made from a short piece of fuel tubing to keep the clevis from opening up inadvertently (Photo 49 – rotated for clarity). The servo ends of the rods were installed using more pieces of 2-56 rods installed the same way and nylon clevises with more keepers for adjustment (Photo 50)

Photo 51

Now we connect up the aileron control rods to the aileron servo arm with 2-56 rods, nylon clevises and fuel tube keepers (Photo 51). If you notice that the aileron control arms are bent backwards at neutral, this will allow “more up than down” aileron throw, a good thing to have on an airplane with a flat bottom wing. It prevents adverse yaw, where the airplane will actually turn the wrong way upon aileron input due to drag from the aileron that is moved downward.

Photo 52

The rest of the radio equipment is now installed, specifically the receiver (Spektrum 7000 series DSM2) with its remote receiver, (Photo 52) both fastened to the fuselage side using double sided foam tape reinforced with a drop of thin ZAP. (Ed. Note: It is OK to mount the satellite receivers using foam tape because, should they fail from vibration, the main receiver still works, saving the airplane. But the main receiver on all glow-powered airplanes should always be mounted in foam with the antennae sticking out from the foam.)The servo leads are connected to the appropriate outputs on the receiver including an extension cable for the aileron channel. The extension will allow easy removal when taking the wing off the airplane.

The manual goes into lots of detail for the installation of the old style 72 MHZ radio equipment and its long wire antenna. Be sure to follow the instructions that come with your specific radio system, but I highly recommend the use of 2.4 GHZ radio equipment if you are buying a new radio system.

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The inner plumbing of the 260 cc fuel tank is assembled (Photo 53) and the tank is mounted inside the tank hatch using foam rubber padding. (Photo 54) Try to mount the tank as high as possible to keep the level of the fuel as high as possible.

Photo 55

I installed the 4-cell, 1650 Ni-MH battery pack which was wrapped with more foam rubber under the fuel tank and as far forward as it would go. The propeller and plastic spinner completed the installation (Photo 55)

Photo 56

Now that everything is done, which took only eight hours, Cole showed back up in the shop, picked up the transmitter and asked if I could take his picture. So, here he is, ready to fly (Photo 56)

Balancing a new airplane is probably the most important steps in the assembly process. There’s an old saying that states “Nose heavy airplanes may fly poorly, but tail heavy aircraft fly only once”. Remember that each and every time you put a new airplane together. The manual gives a range of recommended balance points and I marked this range on each wing panel outside the fuselage sides. I then used thin striping tape to provide a “bump” where each mark was and those could be felt by my fingertips when lifting the fully assembled model to check the balance.

Photo 57

Cole took my picture with the LT-40 on my fingertips (Photo 57), but only after I removed the spinner and added about 2 ounces of lead weight inside the front of the fuel tank compartment to get the airplane to balance correctly within the suggested range. I remove the spinner as my “safety”. I balance the airplane level without it. Re-installing the spinner adds just that little bit of “nose weight insurance” that helps keep me out of trouble.

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After adjusting the control directions and suggested control surface deflections, we took the airplane outside and started the engine with the airplane mounted on an assembly stand. (Photo 58) Minor carburetor adjustments were made and the engine was running pretty well at that particular time. To test the handling, I carried the LT-40 out to the dead end street I live on and taxied it around a bit. (Photo 59) Only a very slight nose wheel adjustment was needed to get the airplane to move in a perfectly straight line.

Photo 60

The plastic spinner that came with the kit got chewed up by my electric starter during a few engine tests and it was replaced with a brass “Heavy Hub” that replaced the lead weight I had added to achieve balance (Photo 60).

Photo 61

As I was checking things over before planning the test flying session, I noticed this split in one of the fuselage formers (Photo 61). It had probably broken during fabrication in the factory because it had been re-glued back together and was actually very sturdy. It should not cause a problem as it was factory repaired. SIG has a “Zero Defect” policy and would probably have replaced the fuselage if there actually had been a problem.

Photo 62

The LT-40 fuselage was moved close to my battery charger location and the on-board battery was put on an overnight charge, along with my Spektrum DX7 DSM2 transmitter. (Photo 62) I also charged up a few glow plug igniter batteries just in case.

We had worked on the LT-40 ARF for 2 hours on Friday evening and about 6 hours on Saturday and the airplane was ready to fly except for charging the batteries. It had been a long time since I had assembled a trainer aircraft and my Grandson actually learned a few things in the assembly process; most importantly tools need to be put away when you’re done with them. We locked up the workshop and planned the flying session for the next day.

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It was going to be a hot Sunday afternoon but we packed up the LT-40 into the car and headed to my flying field. I had made arrangements for a friend to help us with video and still photography and maybe even flying while Cole and I watched.

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The airplane was assembled. A radio range check showed that everything worked properly and we got the engine stated very easily. It took a little fine tuning to get the Aviastar .46 engine to transition smoothly from low to high throttle.

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This is usually the case with new glow engines. We worked diligently to get the engine running reliably for the first flight. It took the better part of an hour but it was finally ready.

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The Kadet LT-40, despite it’s being an ARF, has the classic good looks worthy of its long heritage in the world of model aviation. So many of today’s basic trainers have the same style as does the Kadet. But remember well, that the Kadet was the first. All other trainers have used this airplane as their template, and with good reason.

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My friend was taking the video and Cole was standing next to me as the LT-40 started rolling across the grass runway. It picked up speed and lifted off easily while under complete control; even at this slow airspeed. I had to add quite a bit of down elevator trim to allow it to fly straight and level while at full throttle. Most flat bottom trainers perform about the same way; pitching up at full throttle when trimmed for half. After trimming, it could be flown hands off straight and level very easily while at half throttle.

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I did some gentle left and right turns, trying to use as little control input as possible. I even flew the airplane using no aileron input at all; turning it only with rudder and elevator, which looked clumsy but still under complete control.

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The fuel tank was still pretty full so I asked Cole to stand in front of me with his thumbs over mine. I wanted him to first see what I was moving to make the airplane do what I asked of it. Then I told him to watch the airplane and as I moved my fingers, he saw how the airplane reacted. I made more simple left and right turns and a large figure 8, and his thumbs followed mine exactly.

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Now it was time to see if he learned anything in that 2 minute flight lesson. With my fingers still on the sticks, I asked him to move his fingers in the direction I said, and to watch what the airplane did when he made those control inputs. He actually started to fly the airplane in a semi-controlled fashion and he began to understand why “up” elevator was needed during a turn.

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He was doing pretty well and actually paid close attention to what I asked him to do and to the airplane as it was flying overhead. I believe that with several more flying lessons, he could become very interested in this sport and could turn out to be a better pilot than myself.

The Kadet flew like, well, it flew like a Kadet! It was gentle in the turns, without needing a lot of elevator to keep the nose up while turning. Approach speeds were about 10-15 mph and were easy to manage. Touchdowns were always less than 10 mph.

The airplane can fly loops and rolls and the engine did well in pulling it around. Vertical performance was good for a trainer and it was possible to fly stall turns. However, the rudder coupling made holding opposite aileron necessary during the stall turn or the airplane would roll in the direction of the turn.

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It was time to land the LT-40 and I set up a long approach pattern. A few turns got the airplane lined up with the centerline.

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I used up most of the runway to slow the airplane to a stop. It could be landed slowly and gently with just a hint of a bounce. As I added power to taxi back to the pit area, the engine quit and I had to make the dreaded “runway walk” to gather the airplane and carry it back.

This is the way the next 3 flights went that day, with the engine stopping at idle either before the airplane left the ground, or stopping after landing. Actually this is a lot better than having the engine quit with the airplane up in the air at an inopportune location, like 20 feet in the air just after takeoff.

I made more adjustments to the carburetor, tried a new glow plug and the engine still would not run all that reliably. Then we all decided that it was time to call it a day and someone mentioned that they had a similar problem that was caused by the use of old fuel. BINGO!

I remembered when I bought that fuel and that had to be the problem since the fuel jug was less than half full and it was almost 3 years old! I guess it was time for a new can of fuel, but not today. I’ll stop at the hobby shop at lunchtime on Monday and get some new fuel for the airplane.

Cole and I took the wing of the fuselage and he used some paper towels to clean the exhaust oil from the parts. We packed the airplane back into the car, stopped at the local convenience store for a cold drink and on the way home. He was talking about the things he had seen and done that afternoon in the 97 degree heat.

He didn’t particularly like the part when the engine kept stopping and had to be carried back to the pit area to be started again. He actually surprised be by asking why I didn’t just bring the electric starter and glow plug lighter out to the edge of the runway so we wouldn’t have to walk so far. “Out of the mouths of babes…”

Since it was running on bad fuel and was still new, the Aviastar engine did alright. Some fresh fuel and a little more break-in time fixed that problem. The engine had more than enough power to haul the Kadet up and around, even to fly a few loops and rolls.

The SIG Kadet LT-40 ARF is a very easy model to assemble and the absolute beginner may be able to get it together in a week of evenings. There are a few very minor shortcomings in the assembly, the most serious being the joint between the stab and fin appearing weak as designed.

There was no mention about using thread locker on any of the engine or nose wheel bracket mounting bolts or for grinding flat spots on the gear legs to keep the collars from dropping off. Only with the assistance of an experienced model builder would these items be discovered and corrected.

I always highly recommend the assistance of a more experienced modeler when a beginner is putting their first airplane together. Instruction manuals are pretty good, but they’re not 100% perfect. Get some help at first, before you need help picking up the pieces.

At just $50 for the AviaStar engine and $110 for the Kadet LT-40 ARF, it is nearly impossible to find a better value in a basic trainer setup. It is hard to equal its flying abilities at any price, but certainly not at $160! This is a great airplane at a great price.

The SIG Kadet LT-40 ARF is on my short list of “highly recommended trainers” and rightly so. The ARF version has probably been used to train hundreds, if not thousands, of model pilots to fly over the past few years while all Kadet 40 versions have taught tens of thousands of new RC pilots. The Kadet will continue to do so for many more years, including my Grandson.

For more information on this great trainer, go to: http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV4.html?E+Sig 

 

Additional Aircraft Specifications Manufacturer: SIG Manufacturing                Length:                 57 in.                      Cost: $110.00                                                      Wingspan:            70 in. Radio: DX-7 Spread Spektrum                        Wing Area:          900 sq. in. Servos: JR ST47B                                               Wing Loading: 16.96 oz./sq. ft. Engine: AviaStar 46                                           Weight: 5.6 lb. Airfoil: Flat Bottom Special Airframe Features: Large, flat-bottom wing; The original RC trainer but updated; Light and large airframe. Covered in SIG AeroKote; All wood construction.

Notable Positives Quick and easy assembly Everything fits as designed Gentle and stable in the air Light weight but sturdy Good basic trainer performance Fits in an average automobile Excellent instructions Notable Negatives Fin to stab jointcould be stronger CAA hinge installation note should be relocated to the hinge installation part of the instruction booklet.

SIG Kadet LT-40 ARF Specifications

Manufacturer:

SIG Manufacturing Co., Inc.
P.O. Box 520
401-7 South Front Street
Montezuma, IA 50171-0520

www.sigmfg.com

Short URL: http://masportaviator.com/?p=1022